Fitting Simplicity 1692- Part One

I always knew ready to wear clothes never fit right in all places. Sewing (well fitting) has showed me why. For starters clothes AND patterns assume all your parts are the same size, like medium shoulders = medium stomach = medium chest = medium hips. I however am one mismatched mother fucker. Not one body part is the same size as another.

Let's break down all the fit problems I have to address when fitting a pattern:
  • Small neck/prefer crew necks
  • XXXXS shoulders, neck band to shoulder seam is only like 2-3 inches 
  • medium arms
  • XL chest
  • Small rib cage under my bra line, but then my rib cage bows out (birth defect I guess) out to a medium
  • Small to a medium stomach. AKA small under ribs to a medium muffin top 
  • XS hips/rump
  • Small but long legs 
So what size pattern do I cut out? Do I cut a 6 and make adjustments for the larger parts? Or, what I choose, is cut a 14 and deal with the small parts.

simplicity 1692 package

I am now working on Simplicity 1692. I am going to do View A, the long sleeved one.

cutting out patterm

I start by cutting a size 14 (the largest size). Then place the pattern on top of freezer paper. I use this cool wheel with pins on it to go over the size lines I want. SOO much easier than trying to trace or poking it by hand with a single pin.

custom pattern sizing

These are the sizes that I picked

custom pattern sizing

The real pattern is from the 40's so it is short and to be worm tucked in. No thanks. I just ignored the pin tucks in the front and extended it by a good 4 inches. I also rounded the hem. Then cut it out.

Even with the smallest size shoulder I still need to remove 2 full inches from the shoulder seam. I used this video as instructions.

customizing shoulder seam

I just made a mark somewhere in the middle-ish

customizing shoulder seam

I measured and marked a two inch square.

customizing shoulder seam

 Cut out the square then moved the old arm hole piece over to the new edge.

customizing shoulder seam

In the video the lady only removed like 1/2 an inch and everything was pretty close to fitting, I got something like this.

customizing shoulder seam

But I did like she said and made a mark in the middle of the gap, and graded it back into the curve.

customizing shoulder seam

and cut and taped it all together

customizing shoulder seam

I did the same thing again since it still wasn't smooth. Then I cut and taped it all together.

custom fit simplicity 1692 versus original

OG vs. new

I cut the sleeve a straight 14 because of all the gathers and I made the arm hole bigger than a 6 at this point. I am making a test shirt because I have some gray areas of fit. For one, can I pull it over my head? Should I do the side zip or make a full back zip? Are the arm holes big enough? I know I made them wider, but I'm afraid it might be too up in my arm pit. Did I leave enough seam allowance in the shoulder seam or did I shave off too much and make it too small? Will all the adjustments mess up all the gathers around the neck line? Will the sleeves be too puffy?

Well I cut it out in a dusty pink cotton weave to answer all these questions. Only time will tell if I actually know what I'm doing.

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