Fitting Simplicity 1692 - Part Two

Hey stranger. I've missed you terribly. But life has taken me far away from the NEVER ENDING fitting of this shirt. I had a death in the family and ended up on a family road trip, it was supposed to take 15 hours. With Baby Buttons in the back it took 24 hours, both ways. Word has also made its way around town that I sew and have been filling my sewing room with dresses to be tailored, curtains to be hemmed and pants to be mended. Once all of those were off my to do list I got back to my real work, selfish sewing. 


I finally got this shirt to a point that I could evaluate the fit. The shoulders are good, but I didn't think about seam allowance when I cut the pattern...OOPS so I'll need to add some shoulder width back in. And the arm hole. Oh that arm hole. Well the sleeve didn't really fit. It was super wide, too big and was way high up in my armpit.


In the armpit I had to pleat the thing just so I could get the sleeve in to be able to try it on. Like I said, way too big of a hole.


I picked that part apart and measured the difference. 3 inches. FUCK. I think what happened was when I was making adjustments and checking if the sleeve would fit, I forgot about all the gathering around the shoulder.


So I took my pattern and taped it onto some paper, made some general markings, shoulder line and about where I thought the armhole should be lowered to.


I also made a line to show me where the long arm seam wants to live and meet up with the side seam of the shirt. I also added about half an inch to the shoulder length. I then took my French curve ruler and kind of lined things up, thought it looked good and drew a line.

Then I remembered that the hole was too wide, so I did another curved line, which I forgot to take a photo of.


Then I addressed the extra width under the arm. I just made the armpit less long and faded it into the rest of the shirt. I don't think this is the best idea on how to fix this, but I have fallen out of love with this pattern for the moment and kinda don't care. I hate to say that, but it's true. On the test shirt the armpit pleat doesn't look bad, so if I have to do it again...well I will call it a feature, or a detail and rock it shamelessly. 


Besides diving into fitting patterns, I'm really trying everything new with this shirt. I made my own bias tape! It was harder than it looks, but I did it!


And I made my first button holes! I know. I know. I had a self imposed ban on button holes for no good reason other than fear. I took the leap and I don't think they are THAT bad. They are the same size. Which was what I was so scared of failing at. The bottom though is a bit weak, its a 4 step machine and the backward sewing portion just didn't do it as well (I blame my machine). But I thought this would be a good shirt to go for it on since the buttons are on the cuffs and won't be front and center, and if they are off, or don't match from cuff to cuff only I would know.


Speaking of my machine...she's dying. So the button holes were not super consistent... ok, prob my fault. But then sometimes the needle moves when I wind a new bobbin. Then it did it all the time. Ok fine. All tings I can deal with and work around. Then while I was putting in a new zipper for a friend the feeder would randomly fail. Sometimes it would push the fabric through, sometimes I had to push it. The zipper isn't pretty. Of course it had to fail on someone else's stuff instead of my own. After all the love and care I showed the girl, all the feet I bought her, this is how she treats me.

 Long story short, I'm now in the market for a new leading lady.


You can follow me on Instagram at pocketsandsleeves or if you'd like to watch my latest projects in the works, add me on Snapchat at Orangeowl4. You can always e-mail me at Pocketsandsleeves@gmail.com

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