Simplicity 1692- In plaid I trusted

Well, I did it. I completed Simplicity 1692. If you aren't aware of all the struggles I had modifying the pattern to be more modern and making it fit, check that out here. And don't forget the adjustments I had to make to my adjustments here. The only new adjustment I made that wasn't already documented was I took in the sleeves, after it was almost all done the overall puff of the sleeve looked HUGE, I shaved off about an inch and a half.

simplicity 1692

I will start by saying I don't really love it. You can see it in my face, it makes me sad I tried so hard on this shirt, and it's just

simplicity 1692 front

I think it's because I didn't follow the rule of thumb to make detailed shirts in plain fabric. I liked the way my test shirt looked better, this is the first time plaid was not the way to go.

simplicity 1692 back

The flannel is warm and soft, so it has that going for it.

hook and eye

I like the pattern over all though. I love the keyhole (and its facing) at the back. I skipped the loop and button for just a good old hook and eye.

neckline gathers

The gathering around the neckline rules. My machine kept her shit together long enough to get through some long basting stitches. I made the bias tape around the neck, and then hand sewed that bad boy in. Love it.

simplicity 1692

My machine gave up on working when I was doing the buttonholes so I just left the hem with a serged edge. I just didn't want to push my luck. But on a brighter note, nice pattern matching right?

cuff buttons

This was the second time I ever did buttons holes, the first on the test shirt, and they are even and pretty uniform. Ignore the red markings, I haven't washed the shirt since finishing it.

no waist darts

Another reason I don't love the shirt is since I took out the darts, and the side seam just goes straight down, there is no shape in the waist. If I don't have my arms just right, it just tents out from my chest and makes me look 4 sizes bigger than I really am.

I tried tucking it in, but that didn't look any better. IF I ever make it again I will leave the darts in, I could add them to this one, but I don't think it will save it. 

simplicity 1692 armpit

The arm hole never worked out either, I had to add pleats in the armpit to get the sleeve to fit. I had the same amount of extra as I did before I cut off two idea how that happened. I do know that I will try a different way to shorten the shoulder width on my next pattern. The way I did it would be fine to shave off a few millimeters, but not 3+ inches. It really threw off the arm hole.

I tried to make the shirt look better by doing one of those cool jumping shots, but that didn't work out either.

finished simplicity 1692

So this shirt sure taught me a lot, but I'm just left frustrated and over it.

You can follow me on Instagram at pocketsandsleeves or if you'd like to watch my latest projects in the works, add me on Snapchat at Orangeowl4. You can always e-mail me at

Fitting Simplicity 1692 - Part Two

Hey stranger. I've missed you terribly. But life has taken me far away from the NEVER ENDING fitting of this shirt. I had a death in the family and ended up on a family road trip, it was supposed to take 15 hours. With Baby Buttons in the back it took 24 hours, both ways. Word has also made its way around town that I sew and have been filling my sewing room with dresses to be tailored, curtains to be hemmed and pants to be mended. Once all of those were off my to do list I got back to my real work, selfish sewing. 

I finally got this shirt to a point that I could evaluate the fit. The shoulders are good, but I didn't think about seam allowance when I cut the pattern...OOPS so I'll need to add some shoulder width back in. And the arm hole. Oh that arm hole. Well the sleeve didn't really fit. It was super wide, too big and was way high up in my armpit.

In the armpit I had to pleat the thing just so I could get the sleeve in to be able to try it on. Like I said, way too big of a hole.

I picked that part apart and measured the difference. 3 inches. FUCK. I think what happened was when I was making adjustments and checking if the sleeve would fit, I forgot about all the gathering around the shoulder.

So I took my pattern and taped it onto some paper, made some general markings, shoulder line and about where I thought the armhole should be lowered to.

I also made a line to show me where the long arm seam wants to live and meet up with the side seam of the shirt. I also added about half an inch to the shoulder length. I then took my French curve ruler and kind of lined things up, thought it looked good and drew a line.

Then I remembered that the hole was too wide, so I did another curved line, which I forgot to take a photo of.

Then I addressed the extra width under the arm. I just made the armpit less long and faded it into the rest of the shirt. I don't think this is the best idea on how to fix this, but I have fallen out of love with this pattern for the moment and kinda don't care. I hate to say that, but it's true. On the test shirt the armpit pleat doesn't look bad, so if I have to do it again...well I will call it a feature, or a detail and rock it shamelessly. 

Besides diving into fitting patterns, I'm really trying everything new with this shirt. I made my own bias tape! It was harder than it looks, but I did it!

And I made my first button holes! I know. I know. I had a self imposed ban on button holes for no good reason other than fear. I took the leap and I don't think they are THAT bad. They are the same size. Which was what I was so scared of failing at. The bottom though is a bit weak, its a 4 step machine and the backward sewing portion just didn't do it as well (I blame my machine). But I thought this would be a good shirt to go for it on since the buttons are on the cuffs and won't be front and center, and if they are off, or don't match from cuff to cuff only I would know.

Speaking of my machine...she's dying. So the button holes were not super consistent... ok, prob my fault. But then sometimes the needle moves when I wind a new bobbin. Then it did it all the time. Ok fine. All tings I can deal with and work around. Then while I was putting in a new zipper for a friend the feeder would randomly fail. Sometimes it would push the fabric through, sometimes I had to push it. The zipper isn't pretty. Of course it had to fail on someone else's stuff instead of my own. After all the love and care I showed the girl, all the feet I bought her, this is how she treats me.

 Long story short, I'm now in the market for a new leading lady.

You can follow me on Instagram at pocketsandsleeves or if you'd like to watch my latest projects in the works, add me on Snapchat at Orangeowl4. You can always e-mail me at