How to Make a Pin Tuck Bib aka Casual Tuxedo

Yes, I made another m6692 (like here and here and here and my other favorite here). This time I made it kick ass.



I drafted up myself a tuxedo bib! I'll show you how I did it, but first marvel in my new favorite shirt with me.


It's just a plain black shirt otherwise. It was made from a 4 way stretch jersey I got from Walamrt.


I'm a super nerd and I think it looks extra awesome with my coat on. But I digress.


The white fabric was from the a dress I made ages ago. The collar was fucked up and I never wore it (I can't believe I ever did!), but always loved the fabric so I cut that bitch up.


Swoon.


I got some weird points just as the round part straightens out, but I am sure I am just nitpicking.


Here is the inside. Yeah there is shit all over it, but I made it right before a party and long story short I slept in it before I took these photos.


Ok, so how did I do it? lets get into it.

I recreated what I did with yellow fabric so you can see better, I wasn't as precise so please forgive the non straight lines and poor pressing. Also the real fabric has stripes on it, which made it way easier. I started by watching this video, she marked her shit and so should you if you don't have stripes.

Your shirt should be cut out, then do all this. Then make the shirt.


Start with a piece of fabric much wider and longer than you need, by inches and inches all around. This is so you don't have to find the center, you can just make the center. Also you will need to find the right length later. When I did it for real the fabric was twice as long as I needed and used the half with better pin tucks. HACKED.


I started with the middle folded part. I just roughly made it until I found a width I liked.


Then pinched it up to find the bottom.


Then pinned it, matching up strips.


Then secured the pins.



and sew.



Press out the back first.



and either side of the flap. Press it so there is a crease, this will be a middle of the flap marking. This is your center. Not only for flap ironing, but also for button sewing later.



Now flatten out your flap, and match the ironed mark with the seam underneath.



And press until the cows come home. Press down hard and use a lot of steam.



For the side tucks I recreated my stripes.



I used the stripe closest to the sewing I just did, so my new line of sewing will be covered by my center flap.



Pins in.



Pins secured. The middle stripe is now the the middle of the fold.



The pins should help keep the center flap out of the way.



You will get this straight out of the machine.



This is unfolded, unpressed.



Again, press everything. A lot.



Hey there hidden stitching. Sups?



I skipped the other side's tuck, but you get the idea. Now, find how wide you want it. Throw on the front panel of the shirt and get an idea of how wide and long (holding the top of the bib at the future shoulder seams, not the bottom of the neck hole) you want the bid to be. Also add some seam allowance.



I used a bowl to help with the round part.



Mark and cut. Like this, only even.



I used these scissors to cut notches at the round part to aid in the folding. You can just notch it if you don't have these.



Like this, only good.



On the back side, start your hem at the bottom middle, and work your way up to the top.




Iron the shit out of it. The flatter the better.



Pretend this is your front shirt panel, and that's the neck hole.



Center your bib.



line it all up.



Pin it, flip it, and mark the neck hole on the bib.



Remove the pins and the shirt front, and cut it.



Put it back on the shirt and pin the whole thing on. 



(ignore the collar being attached here)
Start sewing by doing the neck line- use basting stitch. I was in a rush to wear the shirt and I left mine in. Here you can kinda see them.



Then sew it all the way around. I used a 3 stitch length since the black fabric has some stretch so the bib has some room to move with the fabric and not pop a stitch.


 

Now construct the shirt. Lastly sew the buttons on so you can get the perfect placement and the best look since you won't know 100% where the collar line will be until after you have attached it.


and BAM! Good to go!

You can follow me on Instagram at pocketsandsleeves or if you'd like to watch my latest projects in the works, add me on Snapchat at Orangeowl4. You can always e-mail me at Pocketsandsleeves@gmail.com

McCalls7195- Sew Forced

I made a shirt I never planned on making. I went to a new craft store so my husband could buy a bottle(he made a ship in a bottle). It was Hobby Lobby, I don't like my craft stores to have political stances, so I had never been there before. They had a fabric section so naturally I made my way over while Steve Sleeves measured bottle holes. McCall's patterns were on sale for 2 bucks each! I picked up m7195. The size range says xs-med instead of the normal 8-10-12 thing. Took me a while to figure out that was the right packet for me. Then I mosied over to the smallest cart of apparel fabrics ever. I found some cute fabric and quickly scanned the back of the packet and bought 1 1/2 yards.


I thought I'd go trendy and buy this pattern. I've seen girls who shop at Forever21 have this on a necklace or whatever. It reminds me of trail markings from girl scouts.


I had to move my photo shoots inside due to winter and I'm working on the best spot so bear with me. I also got a camera remote which was fun.


Here is the back. Ok I know, this photo is grainy as hell. I learned that the forward facing camera is not as good as the back camera on your phone. I figured this out half way through, so the quality of the photos will go back and forth. Sorry. Won't happen again.


I will say I don't love this pattern. Can you believe I extended it over an inch! (I just use the width of my ruler, never measured it) It's still short for my taste.


I didn't alter the width of the shoulders. I should have. I always underestimate how small my neck to shoulder seam really is. 


I didn't want to take a photo of the bust dart, butt shots are already on the internet so here is me testing out my new remote while I share a pro tip. Knit fabrics get wavy if you just stitch them like normal under a sewing machine. I construct everything else with my serger, but had to face the waves with the darts. I grabbed some extra tissue paper from a pattern I had floating around. Put the tissue paper on the bottom of what you are sewing. So it goes machine, tissue paper, fabric, fabric, needle. Then sew like normal. Just tear off the paper. Works like a charm!


So I messed up the neck. I didn't read the instructions because, I didn't. The neck band was too wide so it stood up like a priest collar. I quickly folded it over and sewed it all around again. It worked...except I got random weird double lumps, see by the shoulder seam. Meh. I already didn't love the shirt so it didn't really ruin it.


Another thing I didn't love about the pattern, that might be my fault. It didn't come with a bottom band. I might have lost it, or thrown it away, but I checked! And looked in the garbage and never found it. I've done shirts like this before so I just winged it and it came out fine. This photo also demonstrates how weird you get taking photos blindly with a button looking at the back of a phone on a tripod.


I when I got the pattern, and the fabric, this isn't the view I wanted to make. I wanted the view where the back is a touch longer than the front and both are hemmed. But I read the back of the pattern too fast (read the wrong one) and was short by like 1/4 of a yard. I used every last inch on length I had just to get this. I'm always pulling it down. Not a fan.


I wanted view B. 


In the end the fit sucks. The pattern sucks, and I learned a lesson: no impromptu sewing. I might make it again the way I wanted to, or even short sleeved, but for now it needs to sit in the corner and think about what it's done.

Imgur isn't letting me upload shit, so no funny links this round, jeez even the post about this shirt isn't going well! Anyway here's this to hold you over until next time.

You can follow me on Instagram at pocketsandsleeves or if you'd like to watch my latest projects in the works, add me on Snapchat at Orangeowl4. You can always e-mail me at Pocketsandsleeves@gmail.com