Simplicity 1325

I did the impossible, I made a dress that fits like a glove!


Simplicity 1325

Sometimes you are inspired by the cover art on a pattern, and sometimes you straight up copy it.

Simplicity 1325


Simplicity 1325

It took me a month to get the fit right, which I will dedicate a whole other post to go over all that, but for now I'm showing off and running to a New Years party.


Simplicity 1325

It has pockets! and look at that fit!

skirt

Full disclosure I didn't make the shirt, I already own 8,000 striped shirts, that's why the stripes clearly don't match.

Simplicity 1325 back

It is made from tuxedo suiting fabric, which gives enough heft to not feel naked and keeps the body in the skirt without any under skirt or horsehair hem.

Simplicity 1325 front

I have never worn dresses because they never fit, or even come close to fitting. This fits better than my wedding dress!

dress lining

The top is lined. I used the same fabric because I have never really lined anything before and was nervous some would show, it doesn't. But it looks pretty slick in the inside.

black on black hem tape

I just serged the raw edges in the skirt, the only serging needed through the whole thing. Of course I used hem lace. I really went back and forth whether to use white or black, I'm glad I went black.

tailoring behind the scenes

The only down side of the whole dress is that it shows cat hair really easily. Here I am attacking it with tape. Nice little behind the scenes shot for ya.

You can follow me on Instagram at pocketsandsleeves or if you'd like to watch my latest projects in the works, add me on Snapchat at Orangeowl4. You can always e-mail me at Pocketsandsleeves@gmail.com

M6992 - Stripe Matching Like a Boss

Ok, ok, I might be have been obsessed with the pattern m6992. I've made it two more times. But I played around with it. I think I might be over it now though and am finally ready to move on.


I know I say it all the time, but, new favorite shirt! I worked really hard on the pattern matching. It normally takes me a few hours to complete this pattern from cutting to wearing, but this version took me 2 days.


I even sketched it out like a 3rd grader first. I bought the fabric at Hobby Lobby shopping for bottles again. Their fabric section lures me in every time. They were having a fall sale at 50% off. My hands were tied! I grabbed these 2 yards of the stripes for 6 bucks with no real purpose, but ended up drawing this out and went for it. I was worried the blue wasn't the right move, but it turned out the be the best idea ever.


This time around I rounded the hem. But after I was done it wasn't round enough. When I went in to take these photos I realized I HAD to change it.


It started off looking like a straight up straight hem with missing triangles on the sides. (I didn't want to set everything up and have it get in my way when sewing, so sorry for the bad selfie)


 I ran a few basting stitches up the bottom sides and created some gathers. Are they perfect? Not by a long shot, but it helped the overall look A LOT. It was just cutting me off in a weird spot and made me look like a brick with stick legs. Once I let my hips peek out I looked human again.


But just look at the pattern matching! I've never really had to do any before and this was my first real go at it. Even the angles from the raglan sleeve match up. Seams look invisible!


Pattern matching like a pro. Also what am I doing with my arms?


These weird arms are due to the victory of all the pain from pattern matching. I had to pin the fabric together even before I laid out the pattern pieces to be cut. The fabric is super light weight and luckily kinda sheer so I could see where/when a stripe went walking.


I marked off the stripes on both body pieces. For the sleeves I just lined up the arm pit stripe, and hoped for the best, knowing I had enough fabric to re-cut if it didn't line up right. It did the first time so you will be seeing this fabric again.


I used my big boy pins and tacked down every stripe. Make sure to pin as close to the edge as possible, leaving no room for the fabric to move on you. Looking at this you might be thinking, "Wouldn't that be hard to sew? I mean, you can only sew one inch at a time," and you would be right.


I even had a pretty bad panic when I jammed my machine with a pin once. I had to resort to taking scissors (super safe I know) and prying the cutting blade up a bit to make it let go.


This however was my biggest mistake. I had a small cup of pins sitting on top of my machine while I was attaching the sleeves. Well I knocked it off spilling 8,000 pins EVERYWHERE. In all the dashing around picking them up I must have shifted something somewhere and caught up some fabric where it doesn't belong. But don't worry this is only in the front.


There it is on the right. The only fucking spot where the stripes don't line up. I keep toying with the idea to add buttons on top of it. 


The blue btw were just some scraps I had laying around, no idea where they came from. It's a tad brighter in person too, it's like 80's spandex. I can only hope it was left over from some biker shorts some kid had to wear that his mom made.


This was my other version. It was made from a sweater knit I got at Hancock in the remnants bin (2 bucks!!). I made the neck and arm bands smaller this time and rounded the hem as well. Then I promptly stained it right in front. I have since gotten it out, but didn't know it was there until I took photos. Nothing really earth shattering here, so I won't bog you down with a shit ton of photos of it. 

You can follow me on Instagram at pocketsandsleeves or if you'd like to watch my latest projects in the works, add me on Snapchat at Orangeowl4. You can always e-mail me at Pocketsandsleeves@gmail.com

How to Make a Pin Tuck Bib aka Casual Tuxedo

Yes, I made another m6692 (like here and here and here and my other favorite here). This time I made it kick ass.



I drafted up myself a tuxedo bib! I'll show you how I did it, but first marvel in my new favorite shirt with me.


It's just a plain black shirt otherwise. It was made from a 4 way stretch jersey I got from Walamrt.


I'm a super nerd and I think it looks extra awesome with my coat on. But I digress.


The white fabric was from the a dress I made ages ago. The collar was fucked up and I never wore it (I can't believe I ever did!), but always loved the fabric so I cut that bitch up.


Swoon.


I got some weird points just as the round part straightens out, but I am sure I am just nitpicking.


Here is the inside. Yeah there is shit all over it, but I made it right before a party and long story short I slept in it before I took these photos.


Ok, so how did I do it? lets get into it.

I recreated what I did with yellow fabric so you can see better, I wasn't as precise so please forgive the non straight lines and poor pressing. Also the real fabric has stripes on it, which made it way easier. I started by watching this video, she marked her shit and so should you if you don't have stripes.

Your shirt should be cut out, then do all this. Then make the shirt.


Start with a piece of fabric much wider and longer than you need, by inches and inches all around. This is so you don't have to find the center, you can just make the center. Also you will need to find the right length later. When I did it for real the fabric was twice as long as I needed and used the half with better pin tucks. HACKED.


I started with the middle folded part. I just roughly made it until I found a width I liked.


Then pinched it up to find the bottom.


Then pinned it, matching up strips.


Then secured the pins.



and sew.



Press out the back first.



and either side of the flap. Press it so there is a crease, this will be a middle of the flap marking. This is your center. Not only for flap ironing, but also for button sewing later.



Now flatten out your flap, and match the ironed mark with the seam underneath.



And press until the cows come home. Press down hard and use a lot of steam.



For the side tucks I recreated my stripes.



I used the stripe closest to the sewing I just did, so my new line of sewing will be covered by my center flap.



Pins in.



Pins secured. The middle stripe is now the the middle of the fold.



The pins should help keep the center flap out of the way.



You will get this straight out of the machine.



This is unfolded, unpressed.



Again, press everything. A lot.



Hey there hidden stitching. Sups?



I skipped the other side's tuck, but you get the idea. Now, find how wide you want it. Throw on the front panel of the shirt and get an idea of how wide and long (holding the top of the bib at the future shoulder seams, not the bottom of the neck hole) you want the bid to be. Also add some seam allowance.



I used a bowl to help with the round part.



Mark and cut. Like this, only even.



I used these scissors to cut notches at the round part to aid in the folding. You can just notch it if you don't have these.



Like this, only good.



On the back side, start your hem at the bottom middle, and work your way up to the top.




Iron the shit out of it. The flatter the better.



Pretend this is your front shirt panel, and that's the neck hole.



Center your bib.



line it all up.



Pin it, flip it, and mark the neck hole on the bib.



Remove the pins and the shirt front, and cut it.



Put it back on the shirt and pin the whole thing on. 



(ignore the collar being attached here)
Start sewing by doing the neck line- use basting stitch. I was in a rush to wear the shirt and I left mine in. Here you can kinda see them.



Then sew it all the way around. I used a 3 stitch length since the black fabric has some stretch so the bib has some room to move with the fabric and not pop a stitch.


 

Now construct the shirt. Lastly sew the buttons on so you can get the perfect placement and the best look since you won't know 100% where the collar line will be until after you have attached it.


and BAM! Good to go!

You can follow me on Instagram at pocketsandsleeves or if you'd like to watch my latest projects in the works, add me on Snapchat at Orangeowl4. You can always e-mail me at Pocketsandsleeves@gmail.com